Fabric Heat Shrinkage Test

Determine the dimensional stability and colour change when subjected to hot pressing. Test to be done for fabrics with more than 50% synthetics.

Apparatus required:

Heating device, e.g. iron press, providing even heat transfer to the specimen from the top by close contact at a controlled temperature and a given pressure of 2 bars.

Test specimen:

• Cut one pieces at least 40 x 40 cm out of the fabric. Lay the fabric plain on a table and mark with three 35 cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the width as well as to the length to the fabric.
• Cut another white piece in size 40 x 40 cm out of the same fabric. Instead of the same fabric also white cotton fabric can be used.

Procedure:

1. Lay the fabric flat on the bottom plate of the press. Place one dry, white cotton fabric or the same fabric as specimen but undyed, on top of the specimen, lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170 °C. Polyamide fabrics must be tested at 160°C.
2. Let the test fabric cool down on the bottom plate of the press.
3. Remove the specimen and let the fabric relax under 20°C ± 2°C and 65 % ± 2% RH For 4 hours.

Evaluation:

• Lay the specimen on a flat surface without stretching. Measure and record the distance between each pair of benchmarks to the nearest millimeter and calculate the dimensional change.
• Colour change of the specimen must be assessed with the grey scale accord. ISO 105 -A02
• Pressure mark must also be assessed.

Nano coatings for textiles and nonwovens

Scientific and commercial research into nanopolymer technology, polymers or copolymers with nanoparticles or nanofillers dispersed in the polymer matrix, has exploded since its discovery less than a decade ago and today there are many applications for nanopolymers both in industry and in consumer markets. From medical devices to cars and now textiles and clothing, the technology, which is invisible to the human eye, is now all around us.

One avenue of research, development and commercialization of nanopolymers is in the nano coatings industry where nanopolymer coatings can impart amazing new properties to materials, increasing their effectiveness whilst decreasing their maintenance time and cost.

When nanopolymer coatings are sprayed onto a surface, extraordinary things can happen. The most common use is rendering a material superhydrophobic, or completely water and oil repellent. This also offers a secondary benefit preventing the accumulation of water, which is a food source for bacteria and fungi, prohibiting growth in the protected area. Nano coatings also form a protective barrier for delicate surfaces preventing scratching and other environmental hazards.

So, whether you are looking to protect your favourite outfit from coffee stains, your shiny shoes from mud or salt damage, or to keep your car looking like it has just been washed, nanopolymer coatings could offer the perfect solution.

Feedback on nano coatings for textiles and nonwovens

As a superhydrophobic and nano coating manufacturer, Nanex is keen to share some of the insights it has recently received in the way of feedback from the textiles industry as well as some developments it has carried out to date to meet the requirements of protecting textiles at the highest level.

Nano coatings for textiles that create superhydrophobic surfaces or extreme water repellent surfaces are very visual, but people are often stuck at that point and it is important to fully understand the technology in this particular use.

The coatings are known for a high repellent angle of 150 degrees and above and that is how the water beads off faster and easier than the more traditional waterproofing products. Of course these products also have limitations and that is the case if we are working with breathable, non-closing protective layers although it still provides the highest protection.

The main factors highlighted in textiles industry feedback for Nanex products are water repellence, easy cleaning, invisibility and the fact that they can be universally applied to all kinds of fibres. Nanex explains:

• Water & Oil repellence: The extra oil repellence offered by Nanex’ technology creates wider potential use and a better protective layer then standard water repellent products. Here, Nanex is thinking about workwear, gloves and other items that are exposed to oil which damage the fabrics.
• Easy cleaning: Because the coating is on a nanometric scale it is wrapped around each individual fibre and stains and liquids cannot damage the fibres and are more easily removed.
• Invisibility: Because the coating thickness is below the micro range, they are invisible and keep the flexibility of the textiles and feel or handle intact.
• Universal: Nanex coatings are universal and can be applied to all natural fibre based fabrics as well as man-made fibre based fabrics, making them useful for al kinds of technical textiles and nonwovens.

Application for producers

“For example, for fabric or apparel manufacturers, this can be done at the rinsing phase. The product is diluted with the rinsing water before drying.”

Nanex finishes can also be applied in a bath or dip coating process and other tested methods used for example by shoe manufacturers include spraying.

But curtains, carpets, and furniture producers all have the opportunity to implement this coating in their production process. Nanex is also currently doing tests during the weaving of textiles where it can install a bath with product, which fabric goes through and is heated and directly activated after the weaving process.

New Method for Production of Stable Antibacterial Fabrics without Color Change

Iranian researchers presented a new method for the production of highly stable antibacterial fabrics without any change in their color.

Antibacterial fabrics are usually produced by using silver nanoparticles. This method changes the color of the fabrics by creating brownish yellow shade in their structure. The aim of the research was to produce fabrics with high and stable antibacterial properties without changing the color. Zinc oxide/silicon dioxide nanocomposite was used in the structure of the fabric coating to obtain the goal.

In this research, cotton fabrics were produced with antibacterial properties by synthesizing and loading of zinc oxide/silicon dioxide (SiO2) nanocomposite on it. In this research, nanoparticles were synthesized through in-situ process by using two different methods on the structure of cotton fabrics. In one of the methods, zinc oxide nanoparticles were firstly synthesized in silicon dioxide solution, and the solution was next coated on the cotton fabrics. In the second method, the cotton fabrics were firstly coated with silicon dioxide and then zinc oxide nanoparticles were coated on its structure.

Results obtained from investigating cotton fabrics coated through the both methods confirmed that no bacteria have grown on the fabrics. However, the fabrics produced through the first method (synthesis of nanoparticles and coating of the fabric) showed larger diameter of the bacteria-free area due to the spherical shape and stability of the nanoparticles. Thermal tests also showed that the samples produced through the first method contain the maximum amount of zinc oxide while they have the lowest primary degradation temperature.

Source: Nano-Tech

INVISTA and Lenzing announce latest collaboration: COOLMAX® fabric with TENCEL® fibre

INVISTA, owner of the COOLMAX® brand, and LENZING, owner of the TENCEL® brand, announced a second innovative collaboration in denim – COOLMAX® fabric blended with TENCEL® fibre. The two companies gave a joint presentation on this new development on November 20th at the Denim by Première Vision show in Barcelona.

In recognition of the growing trend toward athleisure wear, INVISTA and Lenzing AG have been working on the development and promotion of this innovative new denim concept that will provide wearers with cool dry comfort, softness, and sustainability – all in one fabric.

The two fibre companies began working together in 2013 when they announced the results of a study on the benefits of combining Lenzing’s TENCEL® fibre with INVISTA’s dualFX® technology by LYCRA® brand. Now, by extending that collaboration to new fibre blends, the companies are aiming to leverage their strengths in performance, fashion, and sustainability to bring a unique offering to the women’s denim market.

According to Jean Hegedus, INVISTA’s Marketing Director for Denim, today’s consumers expect more from their denim, and these fabrics can deliver on the benefits female consumers are seeking. “Recent studies* by INVISTA confirm that women are looking for more performance attributes in their clothing as well as aesthetic features such as soft hand. COOLMAX® fabrics blended with TENCEL® meet both of these needs as well as providing consumers with a sustainable option.”

One of INVISTA’s offerings that can be used is COOLMAX® ECOMADE fibre that is made from 97% recycled polyester. Lenzing’s TENCEL® is made from wood pulp, a renewable raw material, which is then processed through a closed loop system to create an ecologically responsible fibre. Michael Kininmonth, Lenzing’s denim developer, said “TENCEL® is recognised throughout the industry for its sustainable qualities as well as its softness and strength. By combining TENCEL® fibre with COOLMAX® fabric we can provide added performance benefits that appeal to the contemporary consumer.”

Source: Invista

Archroma launches nature inspired dyes with full traceability

A dyestuffs company with a new name but a long history wants to help clothing companies on their way to eco-conscious fashion, with a range of products created from agricultural waste. And it is embracing the latest in communications technology to enable transparency of the supply chain to consumers.

Archroma, a global leader in color and speciality chemicals, is combining the old and the new in a range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics – EARTHCOLORS – which are derived from almond shells, saw palmetto, rosemary leaves, and other natural products.

EARTHCOLORS make use of agriculture waste products that would otherwise be sent to landfill. They can be used to provide rich red, brown and green colors to denim and casualwear.

Wearing its heart on its sleeve, so to speak, Archroma is providing brand owners with the possibility of transparency along the complete supply chain for EARTHCOLORS. And it is also offering to make that transparency available to clothes shoppers – just as long as they have a smartphone with them.

Archroma will put all the information about individual batches of color on hang tags to be attached to each item of clothing. Each hang tag incorporates a chip with all the information on it, and that information can be accessed by the prospective buyer in the shop using Near Field Communications (NFC) technology incorporated into their phone. Archroma believes that this is the first time that NFC is being used in this way.

NFC is a relative of RFID, or Radio Frequency Identification, which many retailers already use for tracking products. But NFC is more sophisticated and more consumer friendly. Archroma is hoping that it will provide shoppers with a more “involved” buying experience.

“Our aim is to give consumers a choice,” says Alan Cunningham, Head of Textiles Dyes Marketing at Archroma. “We all should have the possibility to choose the fashion option with the least environmental impact and to be safe in the knowledge that there is substance behind what is claimed on the label. With EARTHCOLORS, we allow just that.”

The new dyes, which Archroma describes as biosynthetic sulfur dyes, have been four years in the making. They have the overall performance of the company’s existing range of sulfur dyes made from conventional raw materials. Archroma describes this new development as a step-change in dyes manufacturing and coloration technology.

The chip can contain information such as the mill which dyed the fabric and where the garment was laundered, as well as the source of bio-based raw material.

To make EARTHCOLORS, Archroma transforms biomass from waste products of the agriculture and herbal sectors in a patent-pending process. “Not one square meter of land is set aside to grow the raw material for these dyes, so there is no competition for arable land,” says Cunningham.

The new range is produced near Barcelona, Spain, with all raw materials sourced from within a radius of 500 km.

“At Archroma we are dedicated to developing the latest technologies to deliver fashion trends in the most sustainable ways possible,” says Cunningham. “We aim at helping brand owners and textile mills by letting them know how our colors are made, and how and where our raw materials are made. We are more than happy to share that information, not only with our customers, but also the final consumer.”

Seam Slippage Test | Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics

Determine the resistance offered by thread systems of woven fabrics to slippage at a sewn seam by Fixed load method (ISO 13936-2).

Apparatus and material specification:

• Tensile testing machine with a constant rate of extension of 50 mm/min, with an accuracy of +/- 10%.
• The machine shall be capable of setting the gauge length to 100 mm
• Clamps must have an smooth, flat surface: 1 clamp: 25x25 mm / 2.clamp: 50x25 mm
• Sewing machine: electrically operated, single needle, lock stitch
• Sewing thread: white 100% polyester core spun / yarn count: 45 tex (+/- 5)
• Needle size 90
• Stitch rating: 5 stitches per centimetre

Procedure:

1. Size of the rectangular specimens must be in length 200 mm and in width 100 mm.
2. Cut 5 specimens in warp direction which will be used to determine weft slippage and cut 5 specimens in weft direction which will be used to determine warp slippage
3. Fold the specimen with the face inwards in half by putting the two shorter edges together
4. Stitch a seam with 5 stitches per cm parallel to and at a distance of 20 mm from the fold.
5. Cut each specimen 12 mm from the sewn seam line, cutting through both layers of the fabric. The seam allowance shall be the same on each side of the cut.
6. Condition the specimen in a standard temperature atmosphere: relative humidity of 65% ± 2%RH at a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C.

7. Set the clamps of the tensile testing machine a distance of 100 mm (+/- 1 mm) apart, taking care that the clamps are properly aligned and parallel to each other.
8. Secure the specimen symmetrically in the clamps with the seam midway between, and parallel to, the edges of the two clamps.
9. Set the moving clamp in motion and when the maximum force is achieved, immediately reduce the load on the test specimen to 5 N at a constant rate of extension of (50 ± 5) mm/min.
10. Immediately measure the width of the seam opening at the widest place to the nearest mm.
11. Repeat this procedure with the remaining test specimens.

Evaluation:

Calculate to the nearest mm the mean warp slippage and weft slippage values of the measured seam.

Colour Bleeding Test

Determine the risk of colour staining during home laundering for all garments in combination dark and light coloured fabrics. Test to be done for dark fabrics combined in contrast with light fabrics in the same garments.

Apparatus and reagents required:

• Solution of 0.05% of nonionic interfacial active agent
• Beaker
• Supporting frame of horizontal bar

Specimen preparation:

• For testing print or stripe patterned fabrics, cut a test specimen in 2, 5 cm width and in length more than 20 cm (stripes should be horizontal).
• For testing solid colour fabrics, cut a test specimen in width 2, 5 cm and 3 cm in length out of the fabric. Use an undyed cotton cloth (JIS cloth) in width 2, 5 cm and in length more than 20 cm and sew it together with the test specimen at the short side.

Procedure:

1. Test conducted under standard condition (20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 2 % RH). Air flow must be avoided.
2. Pour 50 ml or 100 ml of the 0, 05% non-ionic surface active agent into a beaker.
3. Immerse one end of the test specimen into the beaker so that approx. 2 cm is dipped into the solution.
4. The same test as above must be done with a blank specimen by using a separated bath.
5. Remove the specimen after 2 hours.
6. Dry it by hanging at room temperature.
7. Tested specimen and blank test specimen shall be returned to the applicant.

Evaluation:

Assess first the tested sample if positive or negative and compared it with blank test. Any stain, caused by colour wicking observed shall be positive. Make an assessment at the most stained part by using the grey scale ISO 105-A03 or JIS L 0805 and give grading.

Note: In case the staining is caused by finishing agents and not by dyestuffs, the test results should not be considered as bleeding.

New viscose fiber with infrared heat reflection

The viscose fiber manufacturer Kelheim Fibres GmbH, Kelheim/Germany, extended its range of speciality products by a newly developed viscose fiber with incorporated infrared-(IR)-reflecting particles.

The human body, like any other matter with comparable temperature, releases a large part of its energy via thermal radiation. This radiation is mainly composed of infrared light. It leads to a loss of energy and therefore to a cooling of the human body.

The newly developed viscose fibre with incorporated IR-reflecting particles can significantly reduce this process, according to the company. Thermal radiation emanating from a body is reflected by the particles incorporated in the viscose fibre and sent back to the body, so reducing the cooling of the person.

In addition, the wearer benefits from the typical properties of a viscose fiber such as comfort, softness and skin friendliness.

This is achieved by the intrinsic quality of the treatment: in contrast to a subsequent finish with additives based on titanium oxide, the mineral IR-reflecting particles are incorporated into the fibre’s core, preserving the typical fibre properties. The effect is permanent as the additive cannot be washed out, the company reports.

First test results of the new fibres that have already been successfully manufactured on a pilot scale, show significant temperature effects in comparison to a standard viscose fibre.

This is said to open up a multitude of possible fields of applications – used in functional underwear, for example, the thermal effect can increase the well-being of the wearer even at low temperatures.

In functional sportswear, the new fibre can lead to improved performance and a faster regeneration of the athlete, thanks to improved blood circulation. Along with textiles, different nonwoven applications could benefit from the IR-reflecting fibre, as for example warming shoe inserts.

Color Fastness to Rubbing (dry and wet) Test

Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Apparatus required:

• Crockmeter, which has the following standard features: The rubbing finger must comprise of a cylinder with a diameter of 16 mm. The finger must move to and fro in a straight line along a 100 mm track on the tested sample and exert a downward force of 9N (920 g).
• Cotton rubbing fabric, complying with ISO 105-F, Section F09, desized, bleached, without finish, cut into squares measuring 50 mm x 50 mm.
• Distilled water
• Grey scale ISO 105 - A03 to determine staining to the cotton rubbing fabric.
• Standard illuminant D65

Procedure:

1. Take one piece of the standard cotton rubbing fabric and mount it over the rubbing finger by using the provided clamp. (For each test a new standard rubbing fabric must be used.)
2. Fasten the test specimen with the clamps at the bottom plate of the Crockmeter.
3. Before carrying out the wet rub test, ensure that the standard cotton fabric has absorbed 100% of its own mass with distilled water.
4. Lower the rubbing finger with the standard cotton fabric on to the fabric to be tested (which is now attached at the bottom plate of the Crockmeter). Turn the Crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second. A stopwatch is recommended for accuracy.
5. After the test, the wet cotton rubbing fabric should be dried at room temperature, or in the drying cabinet at temperature not exceeding 60 °C.
6. The test should be carried out both in the length and width direction of the test.

Evaluation:

Staining of the cotton rubbing fabric must be evaluated under the standard illuminant D65 by using the grey scale ISO 105-A03 for staining.

Color Fastness to Saliva Test

Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles regarding influence of saliva. This test must be done for fabrics used for baby / infant garments only.

Apparatus required:

• Filter paper
• Stick tape
• Distilled water
• Desiccator with water
• Drying cabinet with a constant temperature of 40°C +/- 2°C.
• Solution 1 and 2

Solution 1:

• 4.2 g/l Sodium hydrogen carbonate
• 0.5 g/l Sodium chloride
• 0.2 g/l Potassium carbonate

Solution 2:

• 4.5 g/l Sodium chloride
• 0.3 g/l Potassium chloride
• 0.3 g/l Sodium sulphate
• 0.4 g/l Ammonium chloride
• 3.0 g/l DL-Lactic acid (~90%)
• 0.2 g/l Urea

Procedure:

1. Desiccator filled with water (app. 5cm) preheated at 40 degree
2. Cut one sample of 90 x 120 mm out of the testing fabric
3. Cut two stripes 15 x 80 mm of filter paper
4. Dip one of the filter paper in solution 1 and the other in solution 2
5. Put the soaked stripes of filter paper on the tested fabric with a distance of 10 mm between both filter papers
6. Put the stick tape over the testing sample with filter paper
7. Put the prepared sample for 2 hours at 40 degree into the desiccator

Evaluation:

After carry out the time, take off the filter paper from test fabric and evaluate the colour staining.

Fast to saliva = No colour staining

Non fast to saliva = colour staining

Color Fastness to Wash Test

Determine the resistance of the colors of fabrics to domestic or commercial laundering procedures using a non-phosphate reference detergent incorporating a low temperature bleach activator. Test to be done for all fabrics indicates as “washable” following ISO 105-C08.

• Washing temperature for all fabrics is 40 °C.
• Motorsport fabrics used for team wear pants and shirts have to be tested at 60 °C.

Apparatus and materials required:

• Suitable mechanical laundering device with thermostatically controlled water bath
• Stainless steel containers (75 mm diameter x 125 mm high) and capacity of 550 ml
• 25 stainless steel balls with 6 mm diameter
• Multifibre adjacent fabrics (DW) (AC - CO - PA 6.6 - PES - PAN - WO)
• Grey scale ISO 105-A02 for assessing change in colour
• Grey scale ISO 105-A03 for assessing color staining
• Standard illuminant D65

Reagents (wash solution):

1 litre solution using distilled water at 25°C

• 4 g/l Standard wash detergent ECE 98 (non phosphate detergent)
• 1 g/l sodium perborate tetrahydrate
• 0.16 g/l TAED (tetra-acetylethylene diamine) 92% active or 0.15 g/l (TAED), 100% active>

Standard washing detergent has to be mixed together with TAED and perborate into distilled water at 25 °C ± 5 °C. The solution must be mixed constant with high speed. During preparation, the temperature of the wash liquor may not be heated up more than 25 °C.

Procedure:

1. Cut a specimen in size 100 mm x 40 mm out of the test fabric and attach a piece of multi-fibre in the same size by sewing along one of the shorter edges.
2. Add to each container the volume of wash liquor required to give liquor: fabric composite volume of 20:1 ratio. (approx. 40 ml washing solution)
3. Place in the container the composite specimen together with 25 steel balls.
4. Note the initial temperature (25 ± 5 °C), close the container and place in the laundering device and commence rotation.
5. Raise the temperature at the rate of (1, 5 ± 0, 5) °C per min. to the requested temperature and continue to run the test for a further (30 ± 1) min. at temperature.
6. Remove the composite specimen at the end of the wash and place them into a 1 l beaker half filled with grade 3 water at ambient temperature. Rinse for 1 minute and place the beaker under a cold running tap for 10 min.
7. Dry the specimen in air at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with the parts in contact only at the line of stitching.

Evaluation:

Assess the colour change of the specimen and staining to the multifibre fabric with reference to the original specimen under illuminant D65, by using the grey scales. In case a multifibre fabric is used, the fibre part which is most stained must be evaluated and the fibre symbol shall be reported.

PrimaLoft launches technical knits for high output activities

Mitsui Bussan Techno Products, a specialist in the research and development of innovative textile technology, has collaborated with PrimaLoft, leader in comfort solutions and high-performance insulations, to introduce PrimaLoft Performance Fabric Dry – a collection of technical knits for high-output activities.

The PrimaLoft Performance Fabric Dry collection, available in a broad range of visually tactile textures and colours suited for active apparel and base layer applications, was introduced at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market trade fair that took place in Salt Lake City, UT, last month.

PrimaLoft Performance Fabric Dry features a blend of technical, trilobal polyester fibres and innovative moisture-management technologies to deliver outstanding softness and comfort.

A low-absorption technology embedded into the construction of the yarn is said to effectively pick up moisture off the skin, and create an air barrier that prevents perspiration from re-penetrating the fabric. This technology works together with a water-repellent finish to provide a fabric that dries exceptionally fast, the manufacturers report.

“Active apparel made with PrimaLoft Performance Fabric Dry will not cling to the body or leave you feeling cold and clammy that’s caused by re-penetration of perspiration,” said Joy Gruver, Business Development, Mitsui Bussan Techno Products. “It delivers performance you can truly feel.”

PrimaLoft insulation was originally developed for the US Army as a water-resistant synthetic alternative to down.

Today, PrimaLoft, is the research and development leader in high performance insulations and performance fabrics. Its family of products is manufactured in the US, Europe and Asia.

The PrimaLoft brand is used in leading outdoor and fashion brands, home furnishings, hunting, work wear and military applications.

Source: Innovation in Textiles