Textile Craft: Yarn Manufacturing

Carding

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Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing. It is called the heart of spinning. The carding machine is set with hundreds of fine wires that separate the fibres and pull them into somewhat parallel form. A thin web of fiber is formed, and as it moves along, it passes through a funnel-shaped device that produces a rope like strand of parallel fibres. Blending can take place by joining laps of different fibres. From carding action sliver is formed.</div>
<br />
<h3>
<b>Objectives of carding</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>To open the flocks into individual fibres</li>
<li>Cleaning or elimination of impurities</li>
<li>Reduction of neps</li>
<li>Elimination of dust</li>
<li>Elimination of short fibres</li>
<li>Fibre blending</li>
<li>Fibre orientation or alignment</li>
<li>Sliver formation</li>
</ul>
<br />
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<h3>
<b>Main actions of carding machine</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Action between fee roller & taker in</li>
<li>Action between taker in and cylinder</li>
<li>Action between cylinder and flat</li>
<li>Action between cylinder and doffer</li>
</ol>
<h4>
<b>Useful sliver hanks of different counts:</b></h4><br>
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<b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Description<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Counts<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Count of yarns<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">10s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">20s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <td style="background: #E6EED5; border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-background-themetint: 63; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">32s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <td style="background: #E6EED5; border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-background-themetint: 63; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">40s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <td style="background: #E6EED5; border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-background-themetint: 63; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">60s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <td style="background: #E6EED5; border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-background-themecolor: accent3; mso-background-themetint: 63; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">80s<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hank of carded sliver<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.125<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.125<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
  <td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.13<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
  <td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.135<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
  <td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.145<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td>
  <td style="border-bottom: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-bottom-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-left-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-left-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-right-themecolor: accent3; mso-border-top-alt: solid #9BBB59 1.0pt; mso-border-top-themecolor: accent3; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;" valign="top">
  <div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 6pt 0in;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-bidi-language: BN-BD; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">0.165<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
<h3>
<b>Wastage in Carding</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Taker in waste</li>
<li>Flat strip</li>
<li>Motes & flies</li>
<li>Sliver cut</li>
<li>Filter waste</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
</div>

Carding

Carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequ...

Yarn Conditioning

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<div>Textile fibers are subjected to various physical operations to make in to a yarn. For example cotton fiber passes through opening, carding, drawing and spinning to become a yarn. During these phases the original moisture content on the fiber would have been lost and some static electricity would be carried by the fiber. The amount of static current carried by yarn changes from fiber to fiber. Similarly the strength of any fiber depends up on how close the present moisture content is to the original natural value.</div><br>
<div>Similarly some high twist yarn would tend to loose its twist as and when it is allowed freely, making a lengthwise elongation.</div><br>
<div>Some fibers would tend to shrink when exposed to hot atmosphere or any treatment that involves heat and hence higher temperature. For example polyamide, polyester etc.</div><br>
<div>Some blends like Cotton/Lycra, Viscose/Lycra require conditioning to make the width the fabric stable.</div><br>
So all the above said factors, if not addressed properly would reflect badly on the final quality of yarn or fabric. A process that addresses all the above parameters is called <b>Conditioning</b>. Therefore the aim of <b>Conditioning</b> is to provide an economical device for supplying the necessary moisture in a short time, in order to achieve a lasting improvement in quality.
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<p>
<h3><b>Conditioning Process for Various Yarns</b></h3><br>
<h4><b>100% Polyester yarn:</b></h4> Load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 100°C at 3°C per minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 100°C followed by 15 minutes cooling = 1 cycle. Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
<p>
<h4><b>100% Nylon:</b></h4> Load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 100°C at 3°C per minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 100°C followed by 15 minutes cooling to a temperature of 50°C = 1 cycle. Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
<p>
<h4><b>Silk yarn:</b></h4> Load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 70°C at 3°C per minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 70°C followed by 15 minutes cooling to a temperature for 30°C = 1 cycle. Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
<p>
<h4><b>Cotton/Lycra (40's Lycra) or Viscose/Lycra (60's):</b></h4> Load the yarn in the form cones wound on plastic cones, in to a beam dyeing machine. Introduce steam and raise the temperature to 70°C at 3°C per minutes. Steam for 15 minutes at 70°C followed by 15 minutes cooling to a temperature for 30°C = 1 cycle. Repeat the cycle for 4 times.
<p>
<h3><b>Benefits of Conditioning:</b></h3><br>
<h4><b>For Knitting:</b></h4>
The treatment temperature for knitting yarn is held below the melting point of the wax. Temperatures for unwaxed yarn are coordinated to the compatibility for each individual type of yarn.
<ul>
<li>Upto 20% greater efficiency due to a reduction in the unwinding tension</li>
<li>Fewer needle breaks</li>
<li>Uniform moisture content and friction values</li>
<li>Regular stitch formation</li>
<li>No change in size of finished articles</li>
<li>No extra dampening required</li>
<li>Free from electrostatic</li>
<li>Less fly hence less problems. It helps if the yarn is  running on a closer gauge machines.</li>
</ul>
<u>NOTE</u>: The wax applied should  be able to withstand min 60 degree centigrade.  If low quality wax is used, it will result in major problem. Conditioning should be done at 55 to 60°C.<p>
<h4><b>For Weaving:</b></h4>
<ul>
<li>Upto 15% fewer yarn breaks due to greater elongation</li>
<li>Less fly, resulting in a better weaving quality</li>
<li>Increased strength</li>
<li>Increased take-up of size, enhanced  level of efficiency in the  weaving plant</li>
<li>Softer fabrics</li>
</ul>
<h4><b>For Twisting:</b></h4>
<ul>
<li>Conditioning and fixing of the twist at the same time in a single process.</li>
</ul>
<h4><b>For Dyeing:</b></h4>
<ul>
<li>No streaks</li>
<li>Better dye affinity</li>
</ul>

Yarn Conditioning

Textile fibers are subjected to various physical operations to make in to a yarn. For example cotton fiber passes through opening, carding...

Parameters Influencing the Combing Operation

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<div>Combing is a process which is meant for upgrading the cotton raw material so that the following yarn
properties will improve compared to the normal carded yarn. U% of yarn tenacity gms/tex trash in the yarn(or kitties in
the yarn) Lustre and visual appearance. The main parameters influencing combing are:<p>
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<br /></div>
</div>
<p>
<h3>RAW MATERIAL:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Fibre type</li>
<li>Fibre fineness (Micronaire)</li>
<li>Fibre length</li>
<li>Uniformity of fibre length (CV)</li>
<li>Fibre stiffness</li>
<li>Moisture content</li>
<li>Foreign material associated with the fibres</li>
</ul>
<h3>MATERIAL PREPARATION:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Parallelization of the fibres in the sheet (batt)</li>
<li>Batt thickness</li>
<li>Batt evenness</li>
<li>Orientation of the hooks</li>
</ul>
<h3>FACTORS ASSOCIATED WITH THE MACHINE:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Condition of the machine</li>
<li>Condition of the combs</li>
<li>Speeds</li>
<li>Operational performance of the combs</li>
<li>Type of sliver forming element (diagonal shift of the piecing)</li>
<li>Accuracy of the settings</li>
<li>Drafting arrangement</li>
<li>Movement of the elements</li>
<li>Weight of the elements</li>
<li>Type of withdrawal of the combed web (either straight forward or oblique)</li>
</ul>
<h3>MACHINE SETTINGS:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Feed distance</li>
<li>Type of feed</li>
<li>Detachment setting</li>
<li>Point density of the combs</li>
<li>Circular comb clothing (angles of teeth, density of teeth, etc)</li>
<li>Depth of penetration of the top comb</li>
<li>Piecing</li>
<li>Draft</li>
<li>Drafting arrangement settings</li>
</ul>
<h3>AMBIENT CONDITIONS:</h3>
<ul>
<li>Room temperature</li>
<li>Relative humidity in the room</li>
</ul>

Parameters Influencing the Combing Operation

Combing is a process which is meant for upgrading the cotton raw material so that the following yarn properties will improve compared to th...

Combing Process

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<h3><b>
Sequence of Operation in A Comber</b></h3>
<div>
For getting high quality of yarn, one extra process is introduced which is called combing process. Combing is an operation in which dirt and short fibers are removed from sliver lap by following ways:<br />
<p>
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<ol>
<li>Feeding, lap is fed by feed roller </li>
<li>Fed lap gripped by the nipper</li>
<li>Gripped lap is combed by circular comb</li>
<li>Detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward</li>
<li>While the detaching roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean the lap</li>
<li>While going back, nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap</li>
</ol>
<div>
The raw material delivered by the carding machine can not be fed directly to the comber. Lap preparation is a must.</div>
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<h3><b>
A good lap fed to the comber should have</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Highest degree of evenness so that lap is gripped uniformly by the nipper</li>
<li>A good parallel disposition of fibres so that long fibres will not be lost in the noil</li>
<li>Trailing hooks from carding should be fed as leading hooks to reduce long fibre loss in the noil</li>
<li>Degree of parallelisation of lap fed to the combers should be optimum</li>
</ul>
<h3><b>
Types of feeds in Comber</b></h3>
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<div>
<h4>
<b>Forward feed (concurrent feed):</b></h4>
Feed of the sheet into the nippers occurs while the nippers move towards the detaching roller.</div>
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<div>
<h4>
<b>Backward feed (counter-feed):</b></h4>
Feed of the sheet occurs during return of the nippers. Higher Noil % always improves the imperfections in the final yarn. But the strength and other quality parameters improve upto certain noil %, further increase in noil results in quality deterioration. In backward feed, the cylinder comb combs through the fibres more often than in forward feed. Therefore, the elimination of impurities and neps is always good. However the difference is usually undetectable in modern high performance combers of the latest generation.</div>
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<div>
The Feed Length has a direct influence on production rate, noil %, and the quality of combing. High feed length increases the production rate but cause deterioration in quality. Higher the quality requirement, feed length should be lower. To some extent , the feed length may be decided by the length of the fibre also.</div>
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<div>
Detaching length is the distance between the bite of the nippers and the nip of the detaching rollers. This distance directly affects the noil %. More the detaching distance, higher the elimination of noil.</div>
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<div>
Needles of the top comb have a flattened cross section and are used with a point density in the range of 22 to 32 needles per centimeter. More the needles, more the noil%. The Depth of Penetration of top comb also affects the Noil %. If the comb depth is increased by 0.5mm, approximately 2% increase in noil will occur. When the depth is increased , the main improvement in quality is seen in Neps. Over deep penetration of top comb disturbs fibre movement during piecing which will deteriorate the quality.</div>
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<h3>
<b>Production Calculation of the comber</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>N- Nips per min</li>
<li>S- feed in mm/nip</li>
<li>G- lap weight in g/m</li>
<li>K- Noil percentage</li>
<li>A- tension draft between lap and feed roller(from 1.05 to 1.1)</li>
<li>E- efficiency</li>
</ul>
Production = (E * N * S * G * (100-K) * 60 * 8) / (1000 * 1000 * A *100) 
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Combing Process

Sequence of Operation in A Comber For getting high quality of yarn, one extra process is introduced which is called combing process. Co...

Combing

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<div>
The straighten and parallelizing of fibres and removal of short fibres and impurities by using a comb or combs assisted by brushes and roller. Combing is the process which is used to upgrade the raw material. It influences the following yarn quality:
<br />
<ul>
<li>Yarn evenness</li>
<li>Strength</li>
<li>Cleanness </li>
<li>Smoothness</li>
<li>Visual appearance</li>
</ul>
In addition to the above, combed cotton needs less twist than a carded yarn.</div><p>
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<h3>
Objectives of Combing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Elimination of short fibres</li>
<li>Elimination of remaining impurities</li>
<li>Elimination of neps</li>
</ul>
<div>
The basic operation of the comber is to improve the mean length or staple length by removing the short fibres. Since fineness of short fibres (noil) is low, the overall micronaire of the sliver after combing is high.</div>
<div>
Because of combing, fibre parallelisation increases. Please note that this is a side effect which is not an advantage always. The high degree of parallelisation might reduce inter-fibre adhesion in the sliver to such an extent that the fibres slide apart while pulled out of the can. This may lead to sliver breaks or false draft.</div>
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<h4>
Combers Noel</h4>
<div>
The wastage which is removed from the comber m/c during processing is known as comber’s noel. It is expressed as percentage. It is mainly of short fibers and naps. Noel is used for lower count as raw material.</div>
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<h3>
Combing for finer/better yarn</h3>
<ul>
<li>For finer count, high draft is required but draft irregularity for presence of short fibre. After combing short fibre free product (sliver/roving) is ready for higher draft.
</li>
<li>Longer fibres are finer than shorter fibre. After combing higher count is possible to keep minimum no. of fibre in yarn dia.
</li>
</ul>
<h3>
Contribution of combing to yarn quality</h3>
<ul>
<li>Improve the spinning value of fibre.</li>
<li>Better twist distribution improve the strength of yarn.</li>
<li>Improve uniformity, smoothness and luster of yarn.</li>
<li>Reduce yarn hairiness and imperfection.</li>
<li>Improve Yarn regularity and strength.</li>
</ul>
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Combing

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