Determine the resistance offered by thread systems of woven fabrics to slippage at a sewn seam by Fixed load method (ISO 13936-2).
Apparatus and material specification:
- Tensile testing machine with a constant rate of extension of 50 mm/min, with an accuracy of +/- 10%.
- The machine shall be capable of setting the gauge length to 100 mm
- Clamps must have an smooth, flat surface: 1 clamp: 25x25 mm / 2.clamp: 50x25 mm
- Sewing machine: electrically operated, single needle, lock stitch
- Sewing thread: white 100% polyester core spun / yarn count: 45 tex (+/- 5)
- Needle size 90
- Stitch rating: 5 stitches per centimetre
Procedure:
- Size of the rectangular specimens must be in length 200 mm and in width 100 mm.
- Cut 5 specimens in warp direction which will be used to determine weft slippage and cut 5 specimens in weft direction which will be used to determine warp slippage
- Fold the specimen with the face inwards in half by putting the two shorter edges together
- Stitch a seam with 5 stitches per cm parallel to and at a distance of 20 mm from the fold.
- Cut each specimen 12 mm from the sewn seam line, cutting through both layers of the fabric. The seam allowance shall be the same on each side of the cut.
- Condition the specimen in a standard temperature atmosphere: relative humidity of 65% ± 2%RH at a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C.
- Set the clamps of the tensile testing machine a distance of 100 mm (+/- 1 mm) apart, taking care that the clamps are properly aligned and parallel to each other.
- Secure the specimen symmetrically in the clamps with the seam midway between, and parallel to, the edges of the two clamps.
- Set the moving clamp in motion and when the maximum force is achieved, immediately reduce the load on the test specimen to 5 N at a constant rate of extension of (50 ± 5) mm/min.
- Immediately measure the width of the seam opening at the widest place to the nearest mm.
- Repeat this procedure with the remaining test specimens.
Evaluation:
Calculate to the nearest mm the mean warp slippage and weft slippage values of the measured seam.
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