Textile Craft: Fabric Testing

Fabric Heat Shrinkage Test

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<div>Determine the dimensional stability and colour change when subjected to hot pressing. Test to be done for fabrics with more than 50% synthetics.</div><br>
<h3><b>Apparatus required:</h3></b>
<li>Heating device, e.g. iron press, providing even heat transfer to the specimen from the top by close contact at a controlled temperature and a given pressure of 2 bars.</li>
<h3><b>Test specimen:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Cut one pieces at least 40 x 40 cm out of the fabric. Lay the fabric plain on a table and mark with three 35 cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the width as well as to the length to the fabric.</li>
<li>Cut another white piece in size 40 x 40 cm out of the same fabric. Instead of the same fabric also white cotton fabric can be used.</li>
</ul>
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<p>
<h3><b>Procedure:</h3></b>
<ol>
<li>Lay the fabric flat on the bottom plate of the press. Place one dry, white cotton fabric or the same fabric as specimen but undyed, on top of the specimen, lower the top plate of the heating device and leave the specimen for 15 seconds at a temperature of 170 °C. Polyamide fabrics must be tested at 160°C.</li>
<li>Let the test fabric cool down on the bottom plate of the press.</li>
<li>Remove the specimen and let the fabric relax under 20°C ± 2°C and 65 % ± 2% RH For 4 hours.</li>
</ol>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</h3></b>
<ul>
<li>Lay the specimen on a flat surface without stretching. Measure and record the distance between each pair of benchmarks to the nearest millimeter and calculate the dimensional change.</li>
<li>Colour change of the specimen must be assessed with the grey scale accord. ISO 105 -A02</li>
<li>Pressure mark must also be assessed.</li>
</ul><br>
<p>

Fabric Heat Shrinkage Test

Determine the dimensional stability and colour change when subjected to hot pressing. Test to be done for fabrics with more than 50% synth...

Seam Slippage Test | Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics

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<div>Determine the resistance offered by thread systems of woven fabrics to slippage at a sewn seam by Fixed load method (ISO 13936-2).</div><br>
<h3><b>Apparatus and material specification:</b></h3>
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<ul>
<li>Tensile testing machine with a constant rate of extension of 50 mm/min, with an accuracy of +/- 10%.</li>
<li>The machine shall be capable of setting the gauge length to 100 mm</li>
<li>Clamps must have an smooth, flat surface: 1 clamp: 25x25 mm / 2.clamp: 50x25 mm</li>
<li>Sewing machine: electrically operated, single needle, lock stitch</li>
<li>Sewing thread: white 100% polyester core spun / yarn count: 45 tex (+/- 5)</li>
<li>Needle size 90</li>
<li>Stitch rating: 5 stitches per centimetre</li>
</ul>
<h3><b>Procedure:</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Size of the rectangular specimens must be in length 200 mm and in width 100 mm.</li>
<li>Cut 5 specimens in warp direction which will be used to determine weft slippage and cut 5 specimens in weft direction which will be used to determine warp slippage</li>
<li>Fold the specimen with the face inwards in half by putting the two shorter edges together</li>
<li>Stitch a seam with 5 stitches per cm parallel to and at a distance of 20 mm from the fold.</li>
<li>Cut each specimen 12 mm from the sewn seam line, cutting through both layers of the fabric. The seam allowance shall be the same on each side of the cut.</li>
<li>Condition the specimen in a standard temperature atmosphere: relative humidity of 65% ± 2%RH at a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C.</li>
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<p>
<li>Set the clamps of the tensile testing machine a distance of 100 mm (+/- 1 mm) apart, taking care that the clamps are properly aligned and parallel to each other.</li>
<li>Secure the specimen symmetrically in the clamps with the seam midway between, and parallel to, the edges of the two clamps.</li>
<li>Set the moving clamp in motion and when the maximum force is achieved, immediately reduce the load on the test specimen to 5 N at a constant rate of extension of (50 ± 5) mm/min.</li>
<li>Immediately measure the width of the seam opening at the widest place to the nearest mm.</li>
<li>Repeat this procedure with the remaining test specimens.</li>
</ol>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</b></h3>
<div>Calculate to the nearest mm the mean warp slippage and weft slippage values of the measured seam.</div>
<br>
<p>

Seam Slippage Test | Slippage Resistance of Yarns at a Seam in Woven Fabrics

Determine the resistance offered by thread systems of woven fabrics to slippage at a sewn seam by Fixed load method (ISO 13936-2). Appara...

Colour Bleeding Test

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<div>
Determine the risk of colour staining during home laundering for all garments in combination dark and light coloured fabrics. Test to be done for dark fabrics combined in contrast with light fabrics in the same garments.</div><br>
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<p>
<h3><b>Apparatus and reagents required:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Solution of 0.05% of nonionic interfacial active agent </li>
<li>Beaker</li>
<li>Supporting frame of horizontal bar</li>
</ul>
<h3><b>Specimen preparation:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>For testing print or stripe patterned fabrics, cut a test specimen in 2, 5 cm width and in length more than 20 cm (stripes should be horizontal).</li>
<li>For testing solid colour fabrics, cut a test specimen in width 2, 5 cm and 3 cm in length out of the fabric. Use an undyed cotton cloth (JIS cloth) in width 2, 5 cm and in length more than 20 cm and sew it together with the test specimen at the short side.</li>
</ul>
<h3><b>Procedure:</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Test conducted under standard condition (20 ± 2°C, 65 ± 2 % RH). Air flow must be avoided.</li>
<li>Pour 50 ml or 100 ml of the 0, 05% non-ionic surface active agent into a beaker.</li>
<li>Immerse one end of the test specimen into the beaker so that approx. 2 cm is dipped into the solution.</li>
<li>The same test as above must be done with a blank specimen by using a separated bath.</li>
<li>Remove the specimen after 2 hours.</li>
<li>Dry it by hanging at room temperature.</li>
<li>Tested specimen and blank test specimen shall be returned to the applicant.</li>
</ol>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</b></h3>
<div>Assess first the tested sample if positive or negative and compared it with blank test. Any stain, caused by colour wicking observed shall be positive. Make an assessment at the most stained part by using the grey scale ISO 105-A03 or JIS L 0805 and give grading.</div>
<div><b>Note:</b> In case the staining is caused by finishing agents and not by dyestuffs, the test results should not be considered as bleeding.</div><br>
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<br>
<p>

Colour Bleeding Test

Determine the risk of colour staining during home laundering for all garments in combination dark and light coloured fabrics. Test to be ...

Color Fastness to Rubbing (dry and wet) Test

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<div>
Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials.</div><br>
<h3><b>Apparatus required:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Crockmeter, which has the following standard features: The rubbing finger must comprise of a cylinder with a diameter of 16 mm. The finger must move to and fro in a straight line along a 100 mm track on the tested sample and exert a downward force of 9N (920 g).</li>
<li>Cotton rubbing fabric, complying with ISO 105-F, Section F09, desized, bleached, without finish, cut into squares measuring 50 mm x 50 mm.</li>
<li>Distilled water</li>
<li>Grey scale ISO 105 - A03 to determine staining to the cotton rubbing fabric.</li>
<li>Standard illuminant D65</li>
</ul>
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<p>
<h3><b>Procedure:</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Take one piece of the standard cotton rubbing fabric and mount it over the rubbing finger by using the provided clamp. (For each test a new standard rubbing fabric must be used.)</li>
<li>Fasten the test specimen with the clamps at the bottom plate of the Crockmeter.</li>
<li>Before carrying out the wet rub test, ensure that the standard cotton fabric has absorbed 100% of its own mass with distilled water.</li>
<li>Lower the rubbing finger with the standard cotton fabric on to the fabric to be tested (which is now attached at the bottom plate of the Crockmeter). Turn the Crockmeter 10 complete turns, at a rate of one turn per second. A stopwatch is recommended for accuracy.</li>
<li>After the test, the wet cotton rubbing fabric should be dried at room temperature, or in the drying cabinet at temperature not exceeding 60 °C.</li>
<li>The test should be carried out both in the length and width direction of the test.</li>
</ol>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</b></h3>
<div>Staining of the cotton rubbing fabric must be evaluated under the standard illuminant D65 by using the grey scale ISO 105-A03 for staining.</div>
<br>
<p>

Color Fastness to Rubbing (dry and wet) Test

Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off...

Color Fastness to Saliva Test

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<div>Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles regarding influence of saliva. This test must be done for fabrics used for baby / infant garments only.</div><br>
<h3><b>Apparatus required:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Filter paper</li>
<li>Stick tape</li>
<li>Distilled water</li>
<li>Desiccator with water</li>
<li>Drying cabinet with a constant temperature of 40°C +/- 2°C.</li>
<li>Solution 1 and 2</li>
</ul><br>
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<p>
<h4><b>Solution 1:</b></h4>
<ul>
<li>4.2 g/l Sodium hydrogen carbonate</li>
<li>0.5 g/l Sodium chloride</li>
<li>0.2 g/l Potassium carbonate</li>
</ul>
<h4><b>Solution 2:</b></h4>
<ul>
<li>4.5 g/l Sodium chloride</li>
<li>0.3 g/l Potassium chloride</li>
<li>0.3 g/l Sodium sulphate</li>
<li>0.4 g/l Ammonium chloride</li>
<li>3.0 g/l DL-Lactic acid (~90%)</li>
<li>0.2 g/l Urea</li>
</ul><br>
<h3><b>Procedure:</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Desiccator filled with water (app. 5cm) preheated at 40 degree</li>
<li>Cut one sample of 90 x 120 mm out of the testing fabric</li>
<li>Cut two stripes 15 x 80 mm of filter paper</li>
<li>Dip one of the filter paper in solution 1 and the other in solution 2</li>
<li>Put the soaked stripes of filter paper on the tested fabric with a distance of 10 mm between both filter papers</li>
<li>Put the stick tape over the testing sample with filter paper</li>
<li>Put the prepared sample for 2 hours at 40 degree into the desiccator</li>
</ol><br>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</b></h3>
<div>After carry out the time, take off the filter paper from test fabric and evaluate the colour staining.</div>
<li><b>Fast to saliva = No colour staining</b></li>
<li><b>Non fast to saliva = colour staining</b></li>
<br>
<p>

Color Fastness to Saliva Test

Determine the resistance of the colour of textiles regarding influence of saliva. This test must be done for fabrics used for baby / infan...

Color Fastness to Wash Test

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<div>Determine the resistance of the colors of fabrics to domestic or commercial laundering procedures using a non-phosphate reference detergent incorporating a low temperature bleach activator. Test to be done for all fabrics indicates as “washable” following ISO 105-C08.</div>
<ul>
<li>Washing temperature for all fabrics is 40 °C.</li>
<li>Motorsport fabrics used for team wear pants and shirts have to be tested at 60 °C.</li></ul>
<div>
<h3><b>Apparatus and materials required:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>Suitable mechanical laundering device with thermostatically controlled water bath</li>
<li>Stainless steel containers (75 mm diameter x 125 mm high) and capacity of 550 ml</li>
<li>25 stainless steel balls with 6 mm diameter</li>
<li>Multifibre adjacent fabrics (DW) (AC - CO - PA 6.6 - PES - PAN - WO)</li>
<li>Grey scale ISO 105-A02 for assessing change in colour</li>
<li>Grey scale ISO 105-A03 for assessing color staining</li>
<li>Standard illuminant D65</li>
</ul></div><br>
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<p>
<h3><b>Reagents (wash solution):</b></h3>
<div>1 litre solution using distilled water at 25°C
<ul>
<li>4 g/l Standard wash detergent ECE 98 (non phosphate detergent)</li>
<li>1 g/l sodium perborate tetrahydrate</li>
<li>0.16 g/l TAED (tetra-acetylethylene diamine) 92% active or 0.15 g/l (TAED), 100% active></li>
</ul></div>
<div>Standard washing detergent has to be mixed together with TAED and perborate into distilled water at
25 °C ± 5 °C. The solution must be mixed constant with high speed.
During preparation, the temperature of the wash liquor may not be heated up more than 25 °C.</div><br>
<h3><b>Procedure:</b></h3>
<ol>
<li>Cut a specimen in size 100 mm x 40 mm out of the test fabric and attach a piece of multi-fibre in the same size by sewing along one of the shorter edges.</li>
<li>Add to each container the volume of wash liquor required to give liquor: fabric composite volume of 20:1 ratio. (approx. 40 ml washing solution)</li>
<li>Place in the container the composite specimen together with 25 steel balls.</li>
<li>Note the initial temperature (25 ± 5 °C), close the container and place in the laundering device and commence rotation.</li>
<li>Raise the temperature at the rate of (1, 5 ± 0, 5) °C per min. to the requested temperature and continue to run the test for a further (30 ± 1) min. at temperature.</li>
<li>Remove the composite specimen at the end of the wash and place them into a 1 l beaker half filled with grade 3 water at ambient temperature. Rinse for 1 minute and place the beaker under a cold running tap for 10 min.</li>
<li>Dry the specimen in air at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C, with the parts in contact only at the line of stitching.</li>
</ol><br>
<h3><b>Evaluation:</b></h3>
<div>Assess the colour change of the specimen and staining to the multifibre fabric with reference to the original specimen under illuminant D65, by using the grey scales.
In case a multifibre fabric is used, the fibre part which is most stained must be evaluated and the fibre symbol shall be reported.</div>
<br>
<p>

Color Fastness to Wash Test

Determine the resistance of the colors of fabrics to domestic or commercial laundering procedures using a non-phosphate reference detergen...

Strip Test | Fabric Tensile Strength Test

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<div>
A common tensile test method for textile materials is the strip test. The strip test method is more closely related to the familiar tensile test and is used to determine the breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics and geotextiles. Unlike the grab test method, the strip test method takes into account edge effects. One method of the textile strip test requires the removal of fabric yarns, running parallel to the direction of force application, to create raveled edges in the test sample. The strip test method also requires clamping of the entire width of the fabric test specimen, so force is being directly applied to the whole sample cross section.</div>
<p>
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<p>
<h3><b>Specimen Preparation</b></h3>
<ul>
<li>The fabric should be without any defects like damages or creases.</li>
<li>Prior to preparing the test specimens carry out Three Wash/ Three Tumble Dry cycles in accordance with the appropriate Home Laundering method 4.02 or 4.03 on full width fabric of suitable length to prepare the necessary specimens for test.
</li>
<li>Prepare the test specimens, randomly selected from the fabric so that they do not contain the same warp and weft threads.
</li>
<li>Cut 3 rectangular specimens parallel to the warp direction and 3 rectangular specimens parallel to the weft direction.
</li>
<li>Each specimen should measure 300mm in length and 60mm in width
</li>
<li>Place a direction line parallel to the warp (length direction) on each specimen prior to removing from the fabric.
</li>
</ul>
<h3><b>Conditioning</b></h3>
<div>
Condition the specimens for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20 ± 2°C and 65 ± 2% RH before testing. Carry out the test in this atmosphere.</div>
<br>
<h3><b>Test Procedure</b></h3>
<div>
Using an Automatic Constant Rate of Extension Tensile Tester</div>
<ol>
<li>The programme is automatic. The test speed is 100mm per minute.</li>
<li>Use the 75mm x 25mm rubber faced grips on the rear and 25mm x 25mmm grips on the front.</li>
<li>With the correct grips in place set the distance between upper and lower sets of grips to 200mm, this should be checked using a calibrated metal ruler.</li>
<li>Select the correct programme and input the appropriate machine settings and fabric details etc.</li>
<li>Fix the specimen in the upper grips, so the specimen hangs perfectly vertical and horizontal to the warp and weft yarns.</li>
<li>Close the upper grips.</li>
<li>Allow the fabric to hang under its own weight and secure the fabric in the lower grips.</li>
<li>Close the lower grips.</li>
<li>Set the cross head in motion.</li>
<li>The maximum force at which the fabric ruptures (breaks) will be recorded.</li>
<li>Repeat the above procedure for the remaining specimens.</li>
</ol>
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<h4><b>Note:</b></h4>
<div>- Any break which occurs within 5mm of the clamping line of the grips it should be reported as a grip break</div>
<div>- If the grip break falls below the lowest normal break results then it should be disregarded and further samples tested</div>
<div>- If it falls above the lowest normal break result, then it can be included</div>
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Strip Test | Fabric Tensile Strength Test

A common tensile test method for textile materials is the strip test. The strip test method is more closely related to the familiar tensi...

Textile Craft